So, electrics’ are dearer?

This article gives advice, hints and tips from an experienced club modeller. Please note that the SRFC accepts no liability or responsibility for any loss or damage resulting from actions taken by anyone acting on advice given in these articles. If you have any questions or would like to contact the authors please contact us

We-ell, yes, and no…

While the initial cost of ownership can be greater, cost of use runs heavily in electrics’ favour, the longer that you use it.

In 1994, a UK magazine survey compared similar electric, glow & petrol models over a three-year period of average flying. Electric & petrol worked out about the same cost-wise, with glow costing THREE TIMES as much!

The U.S. example…
Coming up to date; in 2003, a well-known American “electrician” Gary Wright, finalised a two-year study of what two similar models cost him to buy and operate.

The ‘slimer’ – a Great Planes Dazzler fun-fly, powered by an OS 32

The ‘electriker’ – a GWM E3D fun-fly, powered by a Kyosho Magnetic mayhem & 2.8:1 gearbox.

These two models had similar aerobatic performance and were both flown on a regular basis. These models also cost around about the same for the radio & airframe.

OS32SX & silencer / pipe cost him $155
Fuel cost $25 a gallon and he gets 16 flights (120 flights cost 7.5 gallons or $175)
So 120 flights cost total of $350 (or $2.75 per flight)

Endoplasma / gearbox / speed controller cost him $94
10 cell battery pack cost $40
Brushes last about 40 flights at a cost of $4 per pair
So the 120 flights cost total of $146 (or $1.75 per flight!)
However, as time goes on, the engines’ bearings need replacing after about 200 flights and cost about the same as a new Endoplasma motor. Barring accidents, the battery pack should last at least four years (mine are at least that old and are still helping me win comps!)

Change the brushed motor & controller for brushless and you get the about the same $2.75 per flight for the 120 flights, but then with nothing to wear on the electric motor, the cost-per-flight plummets.

My example…
My Weston Cougar flew very well on the Magnum 36 & pipe, costing £108.

It also flies well on an AXI 2820/12 & 40 Amp controller, costing £122 – a £14 difference (and it’s 4 ounces lighter).

I use Duraglow 10 fuel at £15 per gallon and get through 3 gallons (£45) a year.

My battery pack cost £39 and is still going strong after two years…

There are, of course, other advantages to electrics too –

  1. They don’t drip exhaust goo over your car/hall carpet/clothes
  2. They don’t make the car/house/you smell
  3. They only stop when you want them to, or the battery goes flat – not just after take off!
  4. You don’t have to clean them with industrial strength detergents (unless you’ve hit a cowpat)
  5. The neighbours don’t mind you running an electric motor in the garden.
  6. The Wife doesn’t mind (too much) you running an electric motor in the house!
All is not quite as rosy as I portray if you are adding electrics to your engine-powered models. You have to add a decent charger (£60 to £140) to your flight box, and any additional flight-battery packs will inflate the electric ‘cost of ownership’ However, like most of the stuff in the flight box, it’s an item that will last for many years.

Keep ‘em flying – electric or not!

Tom Gaskin

Last updated on 13-March-07